The Ultimate Buyer's Guide for Purchasing engine over speed

19 Mar.,2024

 

If you want to learn more, please visit our website .

[Editor's note: This article originally appeared in the November 2008 issue of Grassroots Motorsports, back when the S2000 was still on the market.]

It might not be as common as a Miata, but the Honda S2000 represents an impressive sporting achievement from a company better known to the masses for its front-wheel-drive people-movers.

Even though it first came out in 1999 for the 2000 model year, Honda had been planning the S2000 for years—at least since the 1995 Tokyo Motor Show. That’s when Honda took the wraps off its rear-wheel-drive convertible, dubbed the Sports Study Model. The car appeared again at the 1997 Tokyo Motor Show as well as a few similar affairs in between. The lines were clean, and its 2.0-liter engine was mounted low and far back in the chassis to promote balanced handling.

After the SSM got a warm reception from enthusiasts and the press, it was no surprise to Honda-watchers when the Japanese company launched the S2000 in late 1999. Some were surprised when the U.S.-market cars received the Honda badge and not an Acura logo, as the price point was above $32,000. The Honda badge and model name, however, were intended to echo the first sporting Honda cars—the S500, S600 and S800 of the 1960s.

[How the Honda S600 Changed the Way We Looked at Japanese Cars]

The production model delivered on the SSM’s promises. It had a perfect 50-50 weight distribution, six-speed transmission, Torsen differential, staggered 16-inch wheels and a jewel of a naturally aspirated engine. The chassis was stiff and its A-arm suspension was tuned for performance over comfort. Extremely fast steering and Bridgestone Potenza S-02 tires came standard. 

This was a car made to be driven and driven hard, a positioning enhanced by a Spartan interior and a refreshing lack of electronic driving aids. It did, however, offer some sparse comforts: Leather upholstery plus electric doors and windows came standard. Only one trim level was available, and there were no options. A few factory accessories, including a neat hard top, could be added. Everything about the S2000 screamed performance, including a cool racing-inspired start button. (Remember, this was before these buttons became cliché.)

However, it was the 2.0-liter, F20C-spec engine that received most of the praise heaped on the package. The engine was unusual for Honda at the time, since it featured a timing chain as well as a conventional clockwise rotation. Mechanical tappets instead of hydraulic adjusters sacrificed quiet running manners for a high rev limit. 

The S2000’s most significant feature is its insanely high-revving inline four-cylinder engine—in 2.0-liter trim it generates a stunning 120 naturally aspirated horsepower per liter. Honda livened up the interior with a variety of bright colors to match the bold exterior palette. Despite the lack of a fixed roof, the car keeps up its torsional rigidity thanks to a structural beam that runs along the floor in front of the seats. The digital dash is an homage to race car data displays. Photography Credits: Courtesy Honda

The F20C was more like a motorcycle engine than other automotive designs, both in layout and specific power output: The F20C whizzed through its rev range to a stratospheric 9000 rpm redline, producing 240 horsepower at 8300 rpm. On a per-liter basis, no other naturally aspirated production engine could touch it. Later revisions to the ECU didn’t increase rated horsepower, but they did allow the engine to dyno better.

The six-speed transmission exhibited typical Honda precision and shift feel. Early versions had rough synchronizers in some gears, but they were revised in 2002. Overall the drivetrain was tight and as responsive as the rest of the package. 

The S2000 suspension was tuned for expert drivers looking for the fastest way around a race track. It was set up loose, even with the stock staggered tires, and could be rotated with the brakes or throttle as conditions warranted. It was not an easy car to drive fast, but experienced drivers loved the way it could be thrown around. Unfortunately, the handling proved to be a weak point with some customers, especially those raised on front-drive Civics. 

The balanced chassis and loose handling meant that ham-fisted control inputs often resulted in the rear coming around unexpectedly, especially when panicked drivers mashed the brake mid-corner. Honda repeatedly revised suspension tuning to tone down the S2000’s tail-happy nature, fiddling with anti-roll bar sizes, rear control arm bushings and alignment specifications for 2002.

Lower Redline, Wider Appeal

Honda revised the still-impressive car in many small ways for 2004. Overall it was the same S2000, but with some welcomed tweaks. Honda felt the car had changed enough to warrant a new chassis designation; where the original S2000 was known as the AP1, the new one was the AP2.

The most significant change could be found under the hood, as the engine was stroked from 2.0 to 2.2 liters while the compression ratio was bumped from 11.0:1 to 11.1:1. While the stated horsepower remained 240, maximum torque moved from 153 lb.-ft. at 7500 rpm to 162 lb.-ft. at 6200 rpm. The insane 9000 rpm redline found in the AP1 was replaced by a more piston-friendly 8000 limit. Gearing was revised to better suit the new powerband.

Purists decried the AP2’s slightly softened suspension and civilized larger engine, but in many ways these mods made for a better car. Some of the snap-oversteer tendencies were gone, and the bump in torque reduced the clutch slip needed when leaving slow corners. The car still wasn’t as mass-market as the Mazda Miata, for example, but ultimately it proved to be faster and more comfortable than the AP1. The performance gap between the $33,000 Honda S2000 and $52,000 Porsche Boxster S narrowed even more.

[Project Car: 2001 Porsche Boxster S]

After the introduction of the AP2, minimal tweaks marked each year until 2008, when Honda broke its tradition of offering only one trim level. To boost sales of the now-aging S2000, the Club Racer model was introduced. 

For 2008, Honda introduced a second trim level to the S2000 lineup, the CR. Shown above in yellow alongside its standard sibling, the CR has the same 2.2-liter engine as the 2004-and-up S2000s. However, the suspension and aerodynamics have been reworked to better suit aggressive on-track use. Plus, grippier cloth seats replace the usual leather-wrapped chairs. Photography Credits: David S. Wallens

Honda claimed that its body kit was designed to reduce aerodynamic lift, and the car’s weight was reduced by making air conditioning and a stereo optional instead of standard. The base car’s leather gave way to cloth seats in the CR, and the soft top and its mechanism were replaced with a hard top only.

End of the Road?

Honda has always been an engineering-driven company, and the S2000 is no different. While on the surface it doesn’t have the gee-whiz features of some of its competitors, including the mid-engine Porsche Boxster and all-wheel-drive Audi TT, it’s a solid, no-compromise driver’s car. Thanks to a stiff rear-drive chassis and a sweet, revvy four-cylinder engine, the S2000 offers a lot of performance for comparatively small money. It’s so nearly perfect that most of us would have no trouble leaving it stock.

After a few years of depreciation, we’d still be hesitant to call it a bargain. However, a used S2000 makes a true enthusiast’s car with very low running costs compared to some of its rivals.

Image Courtesy Honda

The S2000 is an easy car to live with, though perhaps it’s not the best choice for an only car. It might not be the fastest car on the market in a straight line, but it was made to go around corners faster than almost anything else. It remains a competitive car in A Stock autocross competition, and it makes an amazing weekend back road companion or track day toy.

The S2000’s production cycle has also lasted a surprisingly long time. Nine years with only incremental changes is almost unheard of in the industry, and it looks like Honda’s going for at least one more year. Let’s hope that whatever Honda comes up with to replace it will be just as impressive.

Things to Know

While the S2000 came from a mainstream supplier, the cars can be on the rare side. You can’t assume that you’ll find an example in your ideal year, color and price range right away. 

S2000 experts suggest simply picking a budget and buying the newest car that you can. Each year has a few small differences in its details, but they’re all great cars—even the oldest S2000 will provide lots of driving thrills. The most common are 2001 and 2002 cars; sales of these models peaked around 9600 units per year. Inexperienced drivers might be better served by a car with stability control, but we assume the average GRM reader would be fine without it.

Photography Credit: Courtesy Honda

Drivetrain

Swapping the 4.10:1 final drive for Richmond Gear’s 4.57:1 cog is an easy move for quicker acceleration. It increases revs on the highway, of course, but it makes the car sprightlier from light to light.

Chassis

In the suspension category, again, the car is well sorted from the factory. The biggest bang-for-buck upgrades are stickier tires and a good alignment. You can get more than a degree and a half of negative camber up front on a stock car.

The S2000 is an incredible A Stock autocross car, and the formula for success is simple: a huge front bar, R-compound tires, lightweight wheels and alignment.

Body and Interior

A combination of youthful appeal, moderately high power and a tail-happy chassis have resulted in hundreds of these cars going off the road backward. The number of salvaged-title S2000s is pretty staggering. When you inspect a car, make sure it has typical Honda fit and finish. These cars were assembled very precisely from the factory, so a trunk or hood that has weird gaps should be a red flag. Check all the body panels for the VIN sticker, particularly the fenders, hood, radiator support and trunk lid. If you find one that’s been replaced, don’t automatically reject the car. Just ask some hard questions and make sure you’re not paying top dollar for it. 

The sheet metal and stock Honda paint is very thin, so get used to seeing minor scratches. 

A reported problem includes tears in the soft top material behind the driver’s head area. The stock mechanism rubs against this part of the top, eventually leading to excessive wear and tear. 

The plastic rear window used on early cars doesn’t seem to last very long either, as it eventually fogs up and cracks. The solution is an aftermarket top with a glass window. If you can swing the extra cash, the factory hard top is a great solution that increases security and cold-weather enjoyment. It’s also lighter than the folding soft top assembly.

Engine

Like all Hondas, mileage is simply not an issue assuming proper maintenance. Any S2000 with less than 200,000 miles has lots of life left in it. Luckily most have not reached even half that figure, especially those from cold-weather states. Look for the lowest mileage you can, but don’t stress over an extra 20,000 miles.

The S2000 has one maintenance issue that’s not typical for a Honda: The AP1 cars have a reputation for being oil burners. The 2.0-liter engine seems to have been built with ring tolerances that are on the loose side. While this helps its high-revving nature, it also leads to about a quart of oil consumption per every 1500 or so miles.

Check any prospective purchase for the right level of oil and a good history of oil changes. An S2000’s engine is very hard to rebuild successfully, so you might want to pass if you see any evidence that someone’s been into it. This includes oil leaks and excess silicone around the oil pan, although that last clue could indicate nothing more than a replacement pan. Check the compression if you’re serious about a car. The magic number is 240 psi, plus or minus 10 percent.

AEM offers some of their neat bits for the S2000, including cold-air intakes and engine management options.

Look out for a rattling timing chain, as it’s fairly common for the auto tensioner to wear out. This causes a high-pitched buzzing or rattling noise. Other noise is common from the S2000’s non-hydraulic valvetrain, but tensioner noise is louder and more persistent. It will eventually cause the chain to fail, so it should be taken care of right away. 

Sometime in 2002, Honda changed the oil squirter banjo bolts to ones that flow better. These can be upgraded with the engine in situ and might not be a bad idea if future plans include lots of track work or forced induction. It’s probably not necessary for a stock-engined car, but the European Honda distributor did issue a recall for it. 

Need a programmable ECU for the S2000? Hondata has the tools and knowledge needed to mate a user-programmable Acura RSX control unit.

2000 Honda S2000

drivetrain layout: front engine, rear-wheel drive

engine: 1997cc DOHC inline-4

horsepower: 240 @ 8300 rpm

torque: 153 @ 7500 rpm

transmission: 6-speed manual

suspension: double-wishbone front and rear

wheels: 16x6.5-in. front; 16x7-in. rear

tires: 205/55R16 front; 225/50R16 rear

brakes: 11.8-in. disc front; 11.1-in. disc rear

zero-to-60: 5.5 sec.

1/4 mile: 14.2 sec. @ 98 mph

weight: 2809 lbs.

Updates and Changes

While the S2000 production cycle can basically be divided into two groups—early and late—Honda has performed constant tweaks.

2000:

The original AP1-spec Honda S2000 was introduced in 1999 with a 2.0-liter, F20C-spec engine, six-speed transmission, limited-slip differential and 16-inch wheels fitted with 205/55VR16 (front) and 225/50VR16 (rear) Bridgestone Potenza S-02 tires.

2001:

A removable hard top was made available as an option.

2002:

Let’s call this one a mid-cycle freshening, as Honda made some cosmetic changes regarding the interior while adding chrome taillight trim rings. An all-blue interior became available, while a glass rear window replaced the original plastic piece. The seats were slightly lowered, and the ECU was retuned. While the horsepower was still stated to be 240, the dyno said that there was a slight increase.

2004:

Outward appearances didn’t change much, but there were enough differences for 2004 to warrant the new AP2 chassis code. The biggest news was a torquier 2.2-liter engine. The first through fifth transmission gears were lowered, yet sixth was raised. The chassis was retuned to reduce nervousness and oversteer. Outward clues included a new grille and 17-inch wheels—215/45R17 front and 245/40R17 rear Bridgestone Potenza RE050 tires came standard.

2006:

A drive-by-wire throttle and Vehicle Stability Assist were added, along with a new wheel design. Other changes included a returnless fuel system and revised ECU programming. SAE’s net horsepower revision changed the measured output to 237.

2008:

For the first time, Honda offered a second trim level for the S2000. This Club Racer package replaced the convertible top with a hard top while adding revised suspension tuning, a wind tunnel-tuned body kit and different 17-inch wheels. Air conditioning as well as the audio system were both options.

Community

Honda-Tech
honda-tech.com

S2000 Club of America
s2kca.com

S2000.com
s2000.com

S2KInternational
s2ki.com

SuperHonda
superhonda.com

Parts and Service

AEM Electronics
aemelectronics.com

Hondata
hondata.com

King Motorsports
kingmotorsports.com

Majestic Honda
hondaautomotiveparts.com

Join FreeJoin Free Join our community to easily find more Honda, S2000 and Buyer's Guide articles.

Comments

You'll need to log in to post.

Matticus91

Brigadier General

Rep

3462

Posts

3,722



Join Date: Aug 2015

Location: Washington DC


6)

iTrader: (


Drives: 2013 135i

Quote:

desertman123

Originally Posted by



N52 problems:
  • Valve cover gasket leaking/valve cover cracking. Symptoms: oil all around valve cover, spark plug threads oily,
  • Waterpump + thermostat
  • Oil Filter Housing Gasket
  • (Not sure if this is still a thing but earlier N52s experienced it) Hydraulic valve lifter tick

If you're planning on DIY, I'd recommend these tools (on top of normal tools you need to work on any other car [metric socket set, jack stands, breaker bars, etc.]):
  • 3/8" metric hex bit set
  • 3/8" Male & female torx set (maybe with a decent bunch of 1/4" stuff for those tough to reach bolts, like the oil filter housing under the manifold)
  • Flexible 1/4" and 3/8" extensions
  • Just a million extensions of all shapes and sizes (1/4", 3/8", long & short)
  • Universal joint socket connectors
  • BMW jack stand adapters (or just cut some wood to stuff into the jack points)
  • Quality torque wrench
  • Metric offset box wrench set

Air tools are fantastic too, my impact gets used quite a bit. Also an electric screwdriver (you'll thank me the first time you remove the engine/trans skid plate LOL)

128i maintenance req's:
  • Engine oil: ~6-7qts of BMW LL-01 Oil (honorable mention: Castrol 0w-40 euro blend)
  • Oil filter: Mann-Filter HU 816 X
  • Manual transmission: 2qts of GL-4 fluid (honorable mentions: Redline MTL, Redline D6 ATF)
  • Differential (manual trans) 1qt of GL-5 75w-90 fluid (honorable mention: Redline 75w90)
  • Spark plugs: NGK LZFR6AP11GS, NGK 6619 LFR6AIX-11
  • Air filter: Mann Filter C 27 114
  • Cabin air filter: Mann-Filter CUK 8430
  • Power steering fluid (CHECK YOUR RESEVOIR CAP) but most likely 1 liter of Pentosin CHF-11S
  • DOT4 brake fluid
  • Coolant: 1gal BMW coolant + 1gal distilled water, mixed 50/50

Great idea and thanks for the legwork! I'll try to contributeN52 problems:If you're planning on DIY, I'd recommend these tools (on top of normal tools you need to work on any other car [metric socket set, jack stands, breaker bars, etc.]):Air tools are fantastic too, my impact gets used quite a bit. Also an electric screwdriver (you'll thank me the first time you remove the engine/trans skid plate LOL)128i maintenance req's:



Quote:

1and1

Originally Posted by



Should injectors be mentioned here? I believe current rev is 12, and that they are available via rockauto, amazingly enough, as actual OEM parts for dirt cheap and distinctly easier to replace as a DIY than other DI engines out there- Speed6 injectors as an example

BMWhat (used to be Carly) has a used car check that can be run to get details on service history & mileage- compares values to be sure data points are listing expected values.

Suggest using a VIN decoder like bimmer.what to double check what's actually on/in the car.

Look for oil around the oil filter housing re: OFHG wear- I was looking at pics earlier today if needed for this thread

There's more, but it's dinner time......

Still learning these animals, but I had thought the n55 was also a candidate for the intake valve issues? The core DI design is still the same, just changing the VANOS for Valvetronic or whatever that eliminated the throttle body? If I'm way off on theory or terminology here I'll edit this paragraph to either remove it or make it more accurate and keep this thread on target.Should injectors be mentioned here? I believe current rev is 12, and that they are available via rockauto, amazingly enough, as actual OEM parts for dirt cheap and distinctly easier to replace as a DIY than other DI engines out there- Speed6 injectors as an exampleBMWhat (used to be Carly) has a used car check that can be run to get details on service history & mileage- compares values to be sure data points are listing expected values.Suggest using a VIN decoder like bimmer.what to double check what's actually on/in the car.Look for oil around the oil filter housing re: OFHG wear- I was looking at pics earlier today if needed for this threadThere's more, but it's dinner time......



Quote:

tock172

Originally Posted by

Aren't the windshield washer fluid bottle and related parts shared between the 135i and 128i?

A few other things to note: N55 has Valvetronic, N54 does not. N54 uses problematic piezo injectors (which have been revised more than 10 times) and the N55 uses lower cost solenoid injectors.



Quote:

gjm120

Originally Posted by

Minor point as most people will double check before purchasing or installing, but, the plugs for the 128i are shown as NGK LZFR6AP11GS on RealOEM and NGK's catalog. (These are 95712.) Only reason I caught this is because I recently bought a set a very good price even though don't need them now.



Quote:

desertman123

Originally Posted by



Quoted from an Amazon review (I know, not exactly the most credible source but it gets the point across):

"The NGK website lists [NGK 6619 LFR6AIX-11] as a recommended plug for the N52 engine. This is not the plug recommended by BWM, however; the Bentley manual says to use NGK ILZFR6D11. I believe that NGK has updated their plugs since BMW made its original recommendations. If you go through realoem.com, they show different spark plugs for different years in the life of the N52 engine. For an '09, it would probably be the NGK PLZFR6A11S, though neither BMW nor Bentley recommend that one either."

-C.A.M (2 years ago on


Multiple NGK plugs on Amazon have a bunch of positive reviews, all mentioning BMWs with N52s, all saying they run just fine. I honestly don't think it'll make that big of a difference. There's a bunch of threads accross 1Addicts, E90Post, etc. discussing various plugs.

All I know is I bought the NGK LFR6AIX-11 and I haven't had a single hiccup. Performance and gas mileage are great.

___

Some maintenance intervals I found a while ago

Antifreeze: 60K
Brake fluid: 24K or every 2 years
Rear Differential fluid: 50K
Spark plugs: 80K
Manual gearbox fluid: 50K
Oil change: 5K
Power steering fluid: 24K or every 2 years

You're right, but from what I've noticed is there's a decent debate on what NGK spark plug to actually use.Quoted from an Amazon review (I know, not exactly the most credible source but it gets the point across):[NGK 6619 LFR6AIX-11]-C.A.M (2 years ago on https://www.amazon.com/product-revie...munity-reviews Multiple NGK plugs on Amazon have a bunch of positive reviews, all mentioning BMWs with N52s, all saying they run just fine. I honestly don't think it'll make that big of a difference. There's a bunch of threads accross 1Addicts, E90Post, etc. discussing various plugs.All I know is I bought the NGK LFR6AIX-11 and I haven't had a single hiccup. Performance and gas mileage are great.___Some maintenance intervals I found a while agoAntifreeze: 60KBrake fluid: 24K or every 2 yearsRear Differential fluid: 50KSpark plugs: 80KManual gearbox fluid: 50KOil change: 5KPower steering fluid: 24K or every 2 years



Quote:

Fade135is

Originally Posted by

Maybe add the 135is to the list.



Quote:

davis449

Originally Posted by

I would denote Twin Scroll Turbo charger on the N55 specs.



Quote:

Gray_Panther

Originally Posted by

Adding to the 128i N51/52 engines that the manifold gaskets commonly leak between 80-120k miles.

These cars do not support bluetooth music, only with third party adapters they are able to.

That's all I have since my 28k mile 128i N51 has been problem free.

You ROCK!Can you get injector part numbers for me? That would be amazeballs.Added and added!Added!Added!Since there are so few out there I'll wait till someone who owns one get's me some details to listDone!What manifold? Is this the valve cover you're talking about? That one was covered already. I'm going to note the bluetooth bit but haven't decided how yet. Overall the BT functionality (especially for Android) is just crap.


"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT • Pure Stage 1 • XDI 35 HPFP • 404whp/440wtq

IG: msteelio91

__________________

The Ultimate Buyer's Guide for Purchasing engine over speed

The Ultimate 1-Series Buyer's Guide

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit our website.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit lithium ion battery manufacturer.